When I was 17 years old I was studying leisure and tourism with outdoor pursuits at a college called Holme Lacy in Hereford. I was desperate to become a climbing instructor and my mind rarely wandered far from dreaming about mountains, as only a young and obsessive mind can. An exceptionally good tutor there called Theresa encouraged my to go on my first Alpine trip during the Summer break. She even gave me her battered rucksack (which I still have).
In hindsight the trip was a very simple hiking route which in my egotistical mind hyped up into some sort of life and death jaunt. It makes me inwardly cringe reading back on it, and I feel I need to explain I am not like this anymore - honest! Nonetheless, it makes a sweet read of an 'alternative' version of a teenage diary.
In hindsight the trip was a very simple hiking route which in my egotistical mind hyped up into some sort of life and death jaunt. It makes me inwardly cringe reading back on it, and I feel I need to explain I am not like this anymore - honest! Nonetheless, it makes a sweet read of an 'alternative' version of a teenage diary.
Day 1 Sunday 9thJuly 08:00 hrs
I am now sitting on the Eurolines coach just about to depart for Zurich, getting to be here was an absolute nightmare, the train I caught from Kidderminster was delayed for half an hour and the train I caught from
Birmingham was stopped one station away from London and we were told to get out and wait for the next train. I had to check in by 7:30 and only made it by two minutes, after running through London. I hope this isn’t an omen for the rest of the trip. I should arrive in Zurich tomorrow afternoon.
I am now sitting on the Eurolines coach just about to depart for Zurich, getting to be here was an absolute nightmare, the train I caught from Kidderminster was delayed for half an hour and the train I caught from
Birmingham was stopped one station away from London and we were told to get out and wait for the next train. I had to check in by 7:30 and only made it by two minutes, after running through London. I hope this isn’t an omen for the rest of the trip. I should arrive in Zurich tomorrow afternoon.
A lot of nerves about the trip, I have never been to mountains of
an Alpine grande scale and don’t know truly what to expect, I a alone and so
have no backup though that is how I work best. This brings back memories of
another coach journey I made to Marseille, that seems a lifetime away now. I
wish I had words for the doubt and fear I am feeling now, I can only suppress
them with a possibly arrogant confidence in my own ability. I have no idea how
to get from Zurich to Airolo but that problem can wait till tomorrow.
an Alpine grande scale and don’t know truly what to expect, I a alone and so
have no backup though that is how I work best. This brings back memories of
another coach journey I made to Marseille, that seems a lifetime away now. I
wish I had words for the doubt and fear I am feeling now, I can only suppress
them with a possibly arrogant confidence in my own ability. I have no idea how
to get from Zurich to Airolo but that problem can wait till tomorrow.
Day 3 Tuesday 11thJuly
08:40 – Sitting in Airolo now tight in the middle of the Alps.
The coach journey and subsequent train journey to Airolo were fine. When I got
here it came as a shock though, the mountains aren’t just big – their gigantic,
nearly all their sides are steep enough to climb, let alone walk! It was also
pissing down with rain, the hotels were either full or shut so I had to basha in
the pissing rain 1700m up a near vertical bloody mountainside. Woke up today
though and am surrounded by glorious sunshine. Am planning to
08:40 – Sitting in Airolo now tight in the middle of the Alps.
The coach journey and subsequent train journey to Airolo were fine. When I got
here it came as a shock though, the mountains aren’t just big – their gigantic,
nearly all their sides are steep enough to climb, let alone walk! It was also
pissing down with rain, the hotels were either full or shut so I had to basha in
the pissing rain 1700m up a near vertical bloody mountainside. Woke up today
though and am surrounded by glorious sunshine. Am planning to
Hike to Fusio over the next few days which is on the other side
of the mountain. If the weather stays like this I am unconcerned. No one speaks
any English here, nor even French, so it is very isolating. I plan to resupply
myself this morning and head out about lunchtime.
of the mountain. If the weather stays like this I am unconcerned. No one speaks
any English here, nor even French, so it is very isolating. I plan to resupply
myself this morning and head out about lunchtime.
Snowstorm and was forced to forget the peak and shift through the
pass down the other side of the mountain where I found the collapsed hut. I hope
the weather gets more stable, right now one minute it’s raining, next minute
it’s blindingly sunny, next you’re in a snowstorm. It’s really taking it’s toll
on my endurance levels. Snow – it’s the fucking middle of July for Godsake!
pass down the other side of the mountain where I found the collapsed hut. I hope
the weather gets more stable, right now one minute it’s raining, next minute
it’s blindingly sunny, next you’re in a snowstorm. It’s really taking it’s toll
on my endurance levels. Snow – it’s the fucking middle of July for Godsake!
Day 4 Wednesday 12th July
09:10 – Got lucky, last night when I was coming down from the
snowstorm I found this open and deserted hut where I decided to spend the night,
managed to dry all my kit out too. Sunny morning
09:10 – Got lucky, last night when I was coming down from the
snowstorm I found this open and deserted hut where I decided to spend the night,
managed to dry all my kit out too. Sunny morning
again today, don’t know how long it’s gonna last though. I’m
still only 400m below yesterdays peak so this morning I am going to go for them.
20:07 – Where do I begin? It’s been a very long day. I got to the
top of the peak in the morning (Piatelli del Piatto 2456m), it was snowy and icy
on top and I had to scramble for it. Made it back down to the hut for lunchtime
where I met these two Swiss girls who were hiking their was to Nufenen pass. Had
lunch together and enjoyed the company. I then made my way down to Fusio for
about 17:00 where I rested, resupplied and briefly phoned home – my phonecard is
unfortunately not working. I am now in the hay strewn attic of an animal shed
where I will spend the night.
still only 400m below yesterdays peak so this morning I am going to go for them.
20:07 – Where do I begin? It’s been a very long day. I got to the
top of the peak in the morning (Piatelli del Piatto 2456m), it was snowy and icy
on top and I had to scramble for it. Made it back down to the hut for lunchtime
where I met these two Swiss girls who were hiking their was to Nufenen pass. Had
lunch together and enjoyed the company. I then made my way down to Fusio for
about 17:00 where I rested, resupplied and briefly phoned home – my phonecard is
unfortunately not working. I am now in the hay strewn attic of an animal shed
where I will spend the night.
Day 5 Thursday 13th July
19:34 – Slogger of a day, hiked my way up from Fusio through to
the Campolungo for about lunch time. I then walked and summited the Cap. Leit
Sat peak (2378 m), it was a very hard scramble and had to ditch my pack to make the top. When I got to the ridge I could not help feeling extreme vertigo as there are drops of thousands of feet
to either side if this narrow ledge, the view was spectacular, I got a 360
degree view of the whole range for hundreds of kilometres and countless snowy
peaks. I am now in my sleeping bag with aching feet in a mountain hut at 2400m
just below Campolungo and Campo Tencia peaks. Half the roof
19:34 – Slogger of a day, hiked my way up from Fusio through to
the Campolungo for about lunch time. I then walked and summited the Cap. Leit
Sat peak (2378 m), it was a very hard scramble and had to ditch my pack to make the top. When I got to the ridge I could not help feeling extreme vertigo as there are drops of thousands of feet
to either side if this narrow ledge, the view was spectacular, I got a 360
degree view of the whole range for hundreds of kilometres and countless snowy
peaks. I am now in my sleeping bag with aching feet in a mountain hut at 2400m
just below Campolungo and Campo Tencia peaks. Half the roof
has collapsed, there are no doors and there are many rats, real 5
star accommodation here! Tomorrow I will go down into the main valley and decide
my next route. The weather has closed in, however, and it is once again pissing
down with rain and snow. I feel that I must now a paragraph to describe the beauty of this place,
which I have not really done yet. It is not neat beauty, or handed to you on a
plate, it is a very rough hard and wild beauty, often scary and intimidating in
its magnificence and scale. The steepness of these valleys are unbelievable,
some have vertical forests on them while
star accommodation here! Tomorrow I will go down into the main valley and decide
my next route. The weather has closed in, however, and it is once again pissing
down with rain and snow. I feel that I must now a paragraph to describe the beauty of this place,
which I have not really done yet. It is not neat beauty, or handed to you on a
plate, it is a very rough hard and wild beauty, often scary and intimidating in
its magnificence and scale. The steepness of these valleys are unbelievable,
some have vertical forests on them while
others are pure stone and rock for thousands of steep feet, broken only by long thin waterfalls. Many of the peaks are covered in snow, ice and glaciers and contrast with the deep, lush valleys. The emotions you can feel in a single day are greatly varied; the tough, hard, physical torture of climbing a steep valley with a pack on your back; the fear, adrenaline and intimidation of the peaks; and then the relaxed, peaceful tranquillity of the valley beneath, with the curiosity of a small village in its depths. That will have to do for now else I’ll run out of pages. One more thing, my goal for today was P.del Prevat peak which the map said would only be a scramble – it was… or would have been an E3 climb. Although disappointed in was most impressive.
Day 6 Friday 14thJuly 2000
Today was exhausting and apart from covering necessary distance I
don’t feel I’ve achieved much from it. I’ve hiked my way down from the mountain
hut below Campo Tencia into the Valle Leventina valley again, not far from
Airolo. I stopped in Faido to resupply myself with food and to ring home. Am
doing well and only spending about 10F a day, which is like £4 something. I
found a pair of proper trekking ski poles today abandoned on the path coming
down from Campo Tencia, one was slightly broken, true, but I managed to fix them
and they have been a great aid. Must be worth about £150! The weathers been
awful today, it has rained
Today was exhausting and apart from covering necessary distance I
don’t feel I’ve achieved much from it. I’ve hiked my way down from the mountain
hut below Campo Tencia into the Valle Leventina valley again, not far from
Airolo. I stopped in Faido to resupply myself with food and to ring home. Am
doing well and only spending about 10F a day, which is like £4 something. I
found a pair of proper trekking ski poles today abandoned on the path coming
down from Campo Tencia, one was slightly broken, true, but I managed to fix them
and they have been a great aid. Must be worth about £150! The weathers been
awful today, it has rained
steadily all day. I am now just above the village of Osco on the
opposite side of the valley, I have managed to find myself a small barn to stay
in, it too is unfortunately infested with rats, big ones this time too, I really
hate rats. I am planning to do a peak tomorrow so I will make an early start if
the weather is good. I don’t half hate rats, the best I can do is zip all my
food away, zip myself into my sleeping bag and cover the face hole up as best I
can, then hope we don’t disturb each other. I can see it being an uncomfortable
night’s sleep as it is also raining hard on the metal roof. I’ve seen some
amazing sights on the trek, but travel doesn’t half have its down sides. Roll on blue skies.
opposite side of the valley, I have managed to find myself a small barn to stay
in, it too is unfortunately infested with rats, big ones this time too, I really
hate rats. I am planning to do a peak tomorrow so I will make an early start if
the weather is good. I don’t half hate rats, the best I can do is zip all my
food away, zip myself into my sleeping bag and cover the face hole up as best I
can, then hope we don’t disturb each other. I can see it being an uncomfortable
night’s sleep as it is also raining hard on the metal roof. I’ve seen some
amazing sights on the trek, but travel doesn’t half have its down sides. Roll on blue skies.
Day 8 Sunday 16th July
14:49 – I did not write yesterday, I was too exhausted, and
summited the Pecian, a 2662m peak, it absolutely shattered me, after the peak I
had another 15 kilometres to walk, I cannot remember the last time I have been
so physically, mentally and emotionally drained. I learned an important lesson
though about the mountains, ever since I have arrived in the Alps I have been
obsessed with getting to the top of peaks, I have now learned something, in a
mountain area the tops of peaks are only a very small part, and not the most important.
14:49 – I did not write yesterday, I was too exhausted, and
summited the Pecian, a 2662m peak, it absolutely shattered me, after the peak I
had another 15 kilometres to walk, I cannot remember the last time I have been
so physically, mentally and emotionally drained. I learned an important lesson
though about the mountains, ever since I have arrived in the Alps I have been
obsessed with getting to the top of peaks, I have now learned something, in a
mountain area the tops of peaks are only a very small part, and not the most important.
A mountain area consists of more than peaks, it has lakes,
valley, streams, glens and small villages to explore and that these make up 90%
of the adventure, they are what make mountains attractive, not just slogging
your way up peaks. So today I walked back down to Airolo, got on a train and am
now in Bellinzona, I now intend to go into the Italian valleys and explore
them, not simply aiming to achieve some peaks. The most enjoyable part of my
trip so far would have to be Fusio. I hope there are many more places like it.
I will stop route marching myself and start exploring this area as it should be.
valley, streams, glens and small villages to explore and that these make up 90%
of the adventure, they are what make mountains attractive, not just slogging
your way up peaks. So today I walked back down to Airolo, got on a train and am
now in Bellinzona, I now intend to go into the Italian valleys and explore
them, not simply aiming to achieve some peaks. The most enjoyable part of my
trip so far would have to be Fusio. I hope there are many more places like it.
I will stop route marching myself and start exploring this area as it should be.
Day 9 Monday 17th July
19:44 - Where do I
start? Bellinzona was a much bigger place than I expected, it was 19 km from
Bellinzona to Locarno, 5 km from Locarno to Ascona and about another 8 km to
Golino. Luckily on the route yesterday I found a bike and did the route very
quickly. The bike I found in the bottom of a stream in Bellinzona, an absolute
wreck but it took me a long way. I left it in Golino. Since then I have walked
my way up to a small village called Loco and then to another called Auressio. I
am now in a field
19:44 - Where do I
start? Bellinzona was a much bigger place than I expected, it was 19 km from
Bellinzona to Locarno, 5 km from Locarno to Ascona and about another 8 km to
Golino. Luckily on the route yesterday I found a bike and did the route very
quickly. The bike I found in the bottom of a stream in Bellinzona, an absolute
wreck but it took me a long way. I left it in Golino. Since then I have walked
my way up to a small village called Loco and then to another called Auressio. I
am now in a field
below the Salmone peak. Technically I am in the Valle Maggia in
Switzerland yet in truth this place is in every way Italian. The villages are
beautiful, very small winding streets in between high buildings. They are like
medieval mazes. The landscape has changed drastically, unlike up North the peaks
have no snow on them and are not rock or ice but are forested right to their
peaks. Although less grande and dizzying these valleys are beautiful beyond
belief. I only hope my photos do them justice. This afternoon I found an alpine
stream and had a good swim, the stream was deep in a narrow gorge and was the
closest place to paradise and contentment I have ever been. This place truly
astounds me, I feel most privileged.
Switzerland yet in truth this place is in every way Italian. The villages are
beautiful, very small winding streets in between high buildings. They are like
medieval mazes. The landscape has changed drastically, unlike up North the peaks
have no snow on them and are not rock or ice but are forested right to their
peaks. Although less grande and dizzying these valleys are beautiful beyond
belief. I only hope my photos do them justice. This afternoon I found an alpine
stream and had a good swim, the stream was deep in a narrow gorge and was the
closest place to paradise and contentment I have ever been. This place truly
astounds me, I feel most privileged.
Day 10 Tuesday 18th July
Went from Auressio to the Salmone summit and am now not far from
the village ofAurigeno. Very hot today, almost uncomfortable. Nearly all of
today was walking through woodland, I saw very little as regards panoramic views
and to be honest with you, I got a little bored. This is the first time this
has happened in the trip and hopefully the last. The trek was originally going
to be eight weeks, I might skim it down to five weeks unless I get company. The
area is not dizzying or jaw dropping but is quietly
Went from Auressio to the Salmone summit and am now not far from
the village ofAurigeno. Very hot today, almost uncomfortable. Nearly all of
today was walking through woodland, I saw very little as regards panoramic views
and to be honest with you, I got a little bored. This is the first time this
has happened in the trip and hopefully the last. The trek was originally going
to be eight weeks, I might skim it down to five weeks unless I get company. The
area is not dizzying or jaw dropping but is quietly
beautiful. Very quiet, I met only one group of people all day.
Tomorrow I will go to Maggia and maybe treat myself to a nice meal and a drink,
I feel like I’ve been on ration packs for the last week! Tonight I am sleeping
in a sentinero which is not the height of luxury, but will do. There are at
least no rats (a sentinero is like a small open chapel, with a small roof and
three sides. I see lots of these all over the place, many are intricately
painted and adorned. Also most of the summits have large crosses on them and
each village always has a church right in the middle, these are a people
strongly influenced by their religion).
Tomorrow I will go to Maggia and maybe treat myself to a nice meal and a drink,
I feel like I’ve been on ration packs for the last week! Tonight I am sleeping
in a sentinero which is not the height of luxury, but will do. There are at
least no rats (a sentinero is like a small open chapel, with a small roof and
three sides. I see lots of these all over the place, many are intricately
painted and adorned. Also most of the summits have large crosses on them and
each village always has a church right in the middle, these are a people
strongly influenced by their religion).
Day 11 Wednesday 19th July
I am in Mohegno the neighbouring village of Maggia, it is a sunny
day and I have just gorged myself on ice cream and meringue.
18:28 – Beautiful day, spent the whole day
wandering from village to village. Aurigeno, Mohegno,
Maggia to Ronchini, that is where I am sleeping tonight, a stone slab beside a
barn makes for a comfortable bed. I intend to have a similar day tomorrow,
explore Gordevio and then head up towards an Eastward mountain pass. Had a long
talk with mum today which was good.
I am in Mohegno the neighbouring village of Maggia, it is a sunny
day and I have just gorged myself on ice cream and meringue.
18:28 – Beautiful day, spent the whole day
wandering from village to village. Aurigeno, Mohegno,
Maggia to Ronchini, that is where I am sleeping tonight, a stone slab beside a
barn makes for a comfortable bed. I intend to have a similar day tomorrow,
explore Gordevio and then head up towards an Eastward mountain pass. Had a long
talk with mum today which was good.
These villages are very beautiful, spoiled only by a ‘B road’
winding its way in between. The boredom of yesterday has vanished; guess I must
have just been having a bad day yesterday. I have spent entirely too much money
today, however, almost 35F, all on food, though it will last me through
tomorrow as well. I don’t know if ice tea is addictive but I am drinking it by
the litre! It is very cheap, 2F for 4 litres. Am gaining a firm grasp of Swiss
currency now, if not the language. It was nice to have a conversation in
English today, even a little strange. Very hot today, the blue skies have most
definitely arrived.
winding its way in between. The boredom of yesterday has vanished; guess I must
have just been having a bad day yesterday. I have spent entirely too much money
today, however, almost 35F, all on food, though it will last me through
tomorrow as well. I don’t know if ice tea is addictive but I am drinking it by
the litre! It is very cheap, 2F for 4 litres. Am gaining a firm grasp of Swiss
currency now, if not the language. It was nice to have a conversation in
English today, even a little strange. Very hot today, the blue skies have most
definitely arrived.
Day 12 Thursday 20th July 2000
17:01 - Another evening, another collapsing building.
It has been too hot to walk much today. I went
into the village of Gordevio, failed to impress me, it was full of modern
buildings and tourists, it’s dominated by a campsite by the river, full of
bungalow style tents and fat campers. I soon left and went back up into the
mountains on the opposite side of the valley, heavily forested as ever. Stopped
in on a bar on the way up and had a ‘pastis’, have not had one for ages,
forgotten how good they tasted.
17:01 - Another evening, another collapsing building.
It has been too hot to walk much today. I went
into the village of Gordevio, failed to impress me, it was full of modern
buildings and tourists, it’s dominated by a campsite by the river, full of
bungalow style tents and fat campers. I soon left and went back up into the
mountains on the opposite side of the valley, heavily forested as ever. Stopped
in on a bar on the way up and had a ‘pastis’, have not had one for ages,
forgotten how good they tasted.
Have planned a route now which will take me through the Antigoro
valley and then up into Nufenen where I will most likely return to Valle
Leventina and Airolo and return home. My guess is that the route will take me
between four to five weeks to complete, and that will be enough. I believe that
it is impossible to tire of the valleys and glens, but a change would be nice. I
would love to return here one day, probably with climbing gear for I have seen
much potential. This is Jon Luke Picard, of the Starship Enterprise, signing
off! (I always feel like that when I write these entries).
valley and then up into Nufenen where I will most likely return to Valle
Leventina and Airolo and return home. My guess is that the route will take me
between four to five weeks to complete, and that will be enough. I believe that
it is impossible to tire of the valleys and glens, but a change would be nice. I
would love to return here one day, probably with climbing gear for I have seen
much potential. This is Jon Luke Picard, of the Starship Enterprise, signing
off! (I always feel like that when I write these entries).
Day 14 Saturday 22nd July
Where do I start? I am in Lavertezzo, I am stung, bitten, tired
and badly bruised. Yesterday was an absolute nightmare, forgive me if I didn’t
write. The path was through woodland so dense it could have been jungle. Every
couple of meters for miles there were spider webs, and despite my best efforts I
got covered in them, and they were big spiders. Mosquitos were everywhere and I
have gained many stings, I also had many ants get on me and have ant bites all
on my side. The ants were like a carpet on the floor, it was thick and crawling
with them and if you stood still
Where do I start? I am in Lavertezzo, I am stung, bitten, tired
and badly bruised. Yesterday was an absolute nightmare, forgive me if I didn’t
write. The path was through woodland so dense it could have been jungle. Every
couple of meters for miles there were spider webs, and despite my best efforts I
got covered in them, and they were big spiders. Mosquitos were everywhere and I
have gained many stings, I also had many ants get on me and have ant bites all
on my side. The ants were like a carpet on the floor, it was thick and crawling
with them and if you stood still
for more than a few seconds they would be all over you, they were
big ants too, about the size of spiders. To cap it all I had my first encounter
with a snake, a long thin black thing which went for my ankle. Luckily I am in
the habit of wearing thick high ankled boots, so nothing came of it. For the
cherry on top and the finishing blow I had a shower under this waterfall,
slipped, and have bruised all my lower back. For the first time in the trip
yesterday I just wanted to sod off home. I am going to spend a couple of days in
Lavertezzo and then limp my way North up the valley. I am too bruised and tired
to go for any peaks, I will simply head up the valley bottom.
big ants too, about the size of spiders. To cap it all I had my first encounter
with a snake, a long thin black thing which went for my ankle. Luckily I am in
the habit of wearing thick high ankled boots, so nothing came of it. For the
cherry on top and the finishing blow I had a shower under this waterfall,
slipped, and have bruised all my lower back. For the first time in the trip
yesterday I just wanted to sod off home. I am going to spend a couple of days in
Lavertezzo and then limp my way North up the valley. I am too bruised and tired
to go for any peaks, I will simply head up the valley bottom.
In Brione now, bored. I can’t be arsed to sit around and do
nothing. Lavertezzo had nothing, not even a shop, so to eat I had to shift up
the valley to Brione. Tomorrow I might head up to Bignasco, I don’t know.
20:39 – I have left Brione, am now sat outside a beautiful
mountain hut with running water, electricity, a sink, food and drink,
everything, it is also empty and deserted. I am going to spend the night here,
though I feel very cheeky in doing so. It seems strange that such a place is
unlocked and unattended.
nothing. Lavertezzo had nothing, not even a shop, so to eat I had to shift up
the valley to Brione. Tomorrow I might head up to Bignasco, I don’t know.
20:39 – I have left Brione, am now sat outside a beautiful
mountain hut with running water, electricity, a sink, food and drink,
everything, it is also empty and deserted. I am going to spend the night here,
though I feel very cheeky in doing so. It seems strange that such a place is
unlocked and unattended.
Day 16 Monday 24th July 2000
06:45 – Missed another day I know, forgot to write. I am in
Bignasco, it is steadily raining. Yesterday surprised me, the mountain pass
from Brione to Bignasco (Passe del Cocco) was a lot more technical than I
thought and involved very concentrated navigation and extreme care of movement.
I was crossing a boulder field when on the other side of the valley this big rock avalanche
occurred, scared the shit into me. Could of just as easily of been my side of
the valley. The damn thing took entire trees down with it. Made a very careful
descent down into the valley, it was very steep and although the
06:45 – Missed another day I know, forgot to write. I am in
Bignasco, it is steadily raining. Yesterday surprised me, the mountain pass
from Brione to Bignasco (Passe del Cocco) was a lot more technical than I
thought and involved very concentrated navigation and extreme care of movement.
I was crossing a boulder field when on the other side of the valley this big rock avalanche
occurred, scared the shit into me. Could of just as easily of been my side of
the valley. The damn thing took entire trees down with it. Made a very careful
descent down into the valley, it was very steep and although the
valley was flagged (trail marked) there was no path. So far it
has been the one thing that has most tested my mountaineering ability. The hut
was lovely, I was alone there but it cost 12F a night and 12F for a bottle of
wine, I treated myself and had a bottle. It had a fire place and wood so I got a
fire going and by the end of the bottle was moderately drunk. Regretted it the
next morning, however, as I made an early start with a sore head and stomach. It
has absolutely and totally shattered me getting to Bignasco, I have very nearly
exhausted my reserves of mental and physical strength,
has been the one thing that has most tested my mountaineering ability. The hut
was lovely, I was alone there but it cost 12F a night and 12F for a bottle of
wine, I treated myself and had a bottle. It had a fire place and wood so I got a
fire going and by the end of the bottle was moderately drunk. Regretted it the
next morning, however, as I made an early start with a sore head and stomach. It
has absolutely and totally shattered me getting to Bignasco, I have very nearly
exhausted my reserves of mental and physical strength,
I am truly shattered, almost inconceivably so. There is no way I
could keep this pace up for two months. I aim to be back in Airolo by the end of
the week, after that I might spend a week exploring Zurich, the capital, and
then go home. By that time it will have been a month since I left home, and that
makes for a very long holiday. I have got what I needed out of my system, I have
had an adventure, a proper, true adventure (where) the next page of the story is
unknown to me, and it is inseparable from danger and strangeness: great fun. My
plan now is to go up
could keep this pace up for two months. I aim to be back in Airolo by the end of
the week, after that I might spend a week exploring Zurich, the capital, and
then go home. By that time it will have been a month since I left home, and that
makes for a very long holiday. I have got what I needed out of my system, I have
had an adventure, a proper, true adventure (where) the next page of the story is
unknown to me, and it is inseparable from danger and strangeness: great fun. My
plan now is to go up
the valley to a place called S.Carlo, from there I will go back
up into the mountains, cross them, not far from the monster which is Basodino,
and then down into the opposite valley, which is in Italy. From there I will
cross the other set of mountains to get myself into the Nufenen pass, back in
Switzerland. From the pass I will hike it back to Airolo. I think it will take
me about a week. The weather is very bad, however, and that could cause problems.
up into the mountains, cross them, not far from the monster which is Basodino,
and then down into the opposite valley, which is in Italy. From there I will
cross the other set of mountains to get myself into the Nufenen pass, back in
Switzerland. From the pass I will hike it back to Airolo. I think it will take
me about a week. The weather is very bad, however, and that could cause problems.
19:21 – Problems? Yeah, no shit! I got to San Carlo no problem,
it was a road walk. I got soaked to the skin though, cold and wet, not a clever
mix when in the Alps. Stopped in a bar in S.Carlo to have a sandwich, the bar
was filthy, full of flies and the sandwich was pitiful and cost me 5F. I spoke
with a couple of mountaineers who spoke English though and have once again
changed my intended route. I showed them my route and they laughed and told me
it would be near suicide, very dangerous. The weather is atrocious and is meant
to be here to stay.
it was a road walk. I got soaked to the skin though, cold and wet, not a clever
mix when in the Alps. Stopped in a bar in S.Carlo to have a sandwich, the bar
was filthy, full of flies and the sandwich was pitiful and cost me 5F. I spoke
with a couple of mountaineers who spoke English though and have once again
changed my intended route. I showed them my route and they laughed and told me
it would be near suicide, very dangerous. The weather is atrocious and is meant
to be here to stay.
They could not believe that I had done Passe del Cocco, told me
it is closed as it is extremely difficult. I am now in Cap Basodino, a proper
mountain hut, cost me 20F for the night, the first time I have paid for
accommodation. Have had a hot shower, a meal and a drink and am in dry clothes.
I feel much better. I will have to stay here until the weather lightens, however
expensive. No one here speaks English, and communication is extremely hard. I
now intend to head due North to another mountain hut such as this one, then
it is closed as it is extremely difficult. I am now in Cap Basodino, a proper
mountain hut, cost me 20F for the night, the first time I have paid for
accommodation. Have had a hot shower, a meal and a drink and am in dry clothes.
I feel much better. I will have to stay here until the weather lightens, however
expensive. No one here speaks English, and communication is extremely hard. I
now intend to head due North to another mountain hut such as this one, then
go straight to the Nufenen pass, and from there to Airolo. Should
be there by Thursday I think. I am looking forward to sleeping in a proper bed
for the first time in ages, the sensation of a hot shower was incredible. I
cannot believe the trip is only in week three. It really feels like I’ve been
gone months. I don’t know what people make of my trip back home, an adventure?
Pure stupidity? Death wish? And what will be made of me coming back earlier than
expected? But I wonder how many people back home could do what I’ve done over
the past four weeks, not just physically. How many would survive, and it
be there by Thursday I think. I am looking forward to sleeping in a proper bed
for the first time in ages, the sensation of a hot shower was incredible. I
cannot believe the trip is only in week three. It really feels like I’ve been
gone months. I don’t know what people make of my trip back home, an adventure?
Pure stupidity? Death wish? And what will be made of me coming back earlier than
expected? But I wonder how many people back home could do what I’ve done over
the past four weeks, not just physically. How many would survive, and it
has on occasion been between living and dying. I am going towards
morbidity now so I will stop. I am looking forward to a week in Zurich.
morbidity now so I will stop. I am looking forward to a week in Zurich.
D-Day 17 Tuesday 25th July
I cannot believe I am still alive to write this. I did not think
I would be. Am in my sleeping bag in a shed in Nante, just outside Airolo. I am
destroyed. Today I have crossed loose boulder fields, glaciers, stone fall and
ice fields. Have been many occasions when I thought the game was up. The route
should not of been attempted without ice axes and crampons, rope and lead
climbing gear and ice screws. I am amazed I made it, 1:100 chance. The weather
is terrible, cloud, rain and snow. I think
I cannot believe I am still alive to write this. I did not think
I would be. Am in my sleeping bag in a shed in Nante, just outside Airolo. I am
destroyed. Today I have crossed loose boulder fields, glaciers, stone fall and
ice fields. Have been many occasions when I thought the game was up. The route
should not of been attempted without ice axes and crampons, rope and lead
climbing gear and ice screws. I am amazed I made it, 1:100 chance. The weather
is terrible, cloud, rain and snow. I think
they should give me my winter ML now! Am breaking into a
well-deserved bottle of wine. Fuck, why am I sounding so cheery? Today I passed
my physical and mental limit, I am broken, am grinding metal, I can go no
further. Have always been curious where my physical limit is. I have never
really reached it before. I have covered a vast distance of extreme terrain. Am
now going home. Anyone who thinks I might be running away from the challenge can
go fuck off and die, let them try it, if they live, sod ‘em.
well-deserved bottle of wine. Fuck, why am I sounding so cheery? Today I passed
my physical and mental limit, I am broken, am grinding metal, I can go no
further. Have always been curious where my physical limit is. I have never
really reached it before. I have covered a vast distance of extreme terrain. Am
now going home. Anyone who thinks I might be running away from the challenge can
go fuck off and die, let them try it, if they live, sod ‘em.
will go to Zurich tomorrow and spend a few days there, then go
back to London. This alpine adventure is over, have had my ass kicked and learnt
a lot. I would now feel confident of coming back here with better equipment and
trying some bigger stuff. I believe it will take me many weeks to get back to
full strength, not just physically.
back to London. This alpine adventure is over, have had my ass kicked and learnt
a lot. I would now feel confident of coming back here with better equipment and
trying some bigger stuff. I believe it will take me many weeks to get back to
full strength, not just physically.
Day 19
18:00 – Am in a plush hotel bed in Central Zurich. Forgot to
write again yesterday I know. Surprisingly my money has run dry, the hotel bill
cost me a fortune. 110F a night! Had a good night’s sleep last night and am
feeling much better. Keep having showers; it is wonderful to feel clean again.
By my reckoning by the time I get home and all my expenses have been paid I
will have about £60 left. I believe the trip has been worth the cost though; I
have gained such an amount of
18:00 – Am in a plush hotel bed in Central Zurich. Forgot to
write again yesterday I know. Surprisingly my money has run dry, the hotel bill
cost me a fortune. 110F a night! Had a good night’s sleep last night and am
feeling much better. Keep having showers; it is wonderful to feel clean again.
By my reckoning by the time I get home and all my expenses have been paid I
will have about £60 left. I believe the trip has been worth the cost though; I
have gained such an amount of
experience, I believe it has also slightly changed me, as all
things like this do. I catch a Eurolines coach tomorrow lunchtime, expect to be
back in London for Sunday Evening. Zurich isn’t a bad place, I guess. The
streets are cleaner than London that’s for sure. It centres around a large
stretch of water and a small harbour, have spent the past day or so exploring
it. It has a definite atmosphere, cannot decide whether I like it or not. It is
strange being surrounded by so many people, I was
things like this do. I catch a Eurolines coach tomorrow lunchtime, expect to be
back in London for Sunday Evening. Zurich isn’t a bad place, I guess. The
streets are cleaner than London that’s for sure. It centres around a large
stretch of water and a small harbour, have spent the past day or so exploring
it. It has a definite atmosphere, cannot decide whether I like it or not. It is
strange being surrounded by so many people, I was
looking forward to it but now feel hemmed in, I hated the train
journey here, straight from the absolute solitude of the mountains to a carriage
full of people, I hated it. Changed at Arth Goldane again. The hotels have been
really snotty to me, I walked in with my backpack and hiking boots and got some
down the nose looks. I saw some guests pay their bill at the end of their stay
and so was quite insulted when she made me pay mine in advance. They charge me a
fortune then treat me
journey here, straight from the absolute solitude of the mountains to a carriage
full of people, I hated it. Changed at Arth Goldane again. The hotels have been
really snotty to me, I walked in with my backpack and hiking boots and got some
down the nose looks. I saw some guests pay their bill at the end of their stay
and so was quite insulted when she made me pay mine in advance. They charge me a
fortune then treat me
snottily, it disgusts me. I hate upper class snobbery, if
anything I am better, not worse than them. I was gutted to find a cheaper hotel
today, only 60F, this place has chandeliers for godsake. I will spend this
evening walking around, I will spend no more money.
anything I am better, not worse than them. I was gutted to find a cheaper hotel
today, only 60F, this place has chandeliers for godsake. I will spend this
evening walking around, I will spend no more money.
Day 21 Saturday 29th July 2000
The Reckoning
13:35 (British time) – This is my last entry; I am home, back in
Kidderminster. I have changed my currency back to English, except for a little,
I have handed my films in for development, and I am now at home. Unfortunately I
am the only one who is at home, and I don’t have a key, and its chucking down
with rain! So I sit here under my basha once again writing in my book to bide
the time. It was a long, tedious, and mostly uneventful journey back
The Reckoning
13:35 (British time) – This is my last entry; I am home, back in
Kidderminster. I have changed my currency back to English, except for a little,
I have handed my films in for development, and I am now at home. Unfortunately I
am the only one who is at home, and I don’t have a key, and its chucking down
with rain! So I sit here under my basha once again writing in my book to bide
the time. It was a long, tedious, and mostly uneventful journey back
from Zurich, I spoke with a few people on the coach back mind,
one lad from Strasbourg spoke good English, and you know what, when we arrived
back in London I felt embarrassed of it. Unlike all these beautiful foreign
cities we had been travelling through, London was full of litter, graffiti and
filth. I was not proud of it in the least. Kidderminster is no better, the
streets are filthy and the air so polluted it dries your throat. We as a nation
should be most ashamed by the example set. Griping over with it is good to be
back home nonetheless, even if it is raining. So I end this
one lad from Strasbourg spoke good English, and you know what, when we arrived
back in London I felt embarrassed of it. Unlike all these beautiful foreign
cities we had been travelling through, London was full of litter, graffiti and
filth. I was not proud of it in the least. Kidderminster is no better, the
streets are filthy and the air so polluted it dries your throat. We as a nation
should be most ashamed by the example set. Griping over with it is good to be
back home nonetheless, even if it is raining. So I end this
Adrienne xx